Before buying any iron filter, you need to know your iron level and type. Here's how to test accurately.
Iron in well water exists in multiple forms that behave differently and require different treatment. A basic hardness test strip gives you one number. Iron testing needs to distinguish between ferrous iron (dissolved, clear water), ferric iron (particulate, orange/brown water), and iron bacteria (slimy deposits). Your test results should guide which treatment you choose.
| Ferrous iron (Fe²⁺) | Dissolved — water looks clear from tap, turns orange on exposure to air. Most common. |
| Ferric iron (Fe³⁺) | Particulate — water looks orange or brown directly from tap. Sediment filter helps. |
| Iron bacteria | Slimy reddish-brown deposits in toilet tank, fixtures. Not strictly iron — requires different treatment. |
| Organic iron | Bound to organic compounds — common in surface-influenced wells. Harder to treat. |
| Iron test strips ($10–$20) | Quick, inexpensive. Good for screening. Accuracy is limited below 0.5 PPM. |
| Hach iron test kit ($25–$40) | Colorimetric test — more accurate. Distinguishes ferrous vs total iron. |
| Well water panel kit ($50–$80) | Includes iron, hardness, pH, bacteria. Our recommended starting kit. |
| Certified mail-in lab ($80–$150) | Most accurate. Required before purchasing expensive equipment. Can specify iron speciation. |