Before buying any iron filter, you need to know your iron level and type. Here's how to test accurately.
At-home iron tests show total iron but not the type. Tap Score's iron speciation test breaks down ferrous (dissolved) vs ferric (oxidized) iron — which determines whether you need an oxidizing filter, a softener, or air injection. The right filter for 3 PPM ferrous iron is wrong for 3 PPM ferric iron.
Order Iron Speciation Test (~$130) →Iron in well water exists in multiple forms that behave differently and require different treatment. A basic hardness test strip gives you one number. Iron testing needs to distinguish between ferrous iron (dissolved, clear water), ferric iron (particulate, orange/brown water), and iron bacteria (slimy deposits). Your test results should guide which treatment you choose.
| Ferrous iron (Fe²⁺) | Dissolved — water looks clear from tap, turns orange on exposure to air. Most common. |
| Ferric iron (Fe³⁺) | Particulate — water looks orange or brown directly from tap. Sediment filter helps. |
| Iron bacteria | Slimy reddish-brown deposits in toilet tank, fixtures. Not strictly iron — requires different treatment. |
| Organic iron | Bound to organic compounds — common in surface-influenced wells. Harder to treat. |
| Iron test strips ($10–$20) | Quick, inexpensive. Good for screening. Accuracy is limited below 0.5 PPM. |
| Hach iron test kit ($25–$40) | Colorimetric test — more accurate. Distinguishes ferrous vs total iron. |
| Well water panel kit ($50–$80) | Includes iron, hardness, pH, bacteria. Our recommended starting kit. |
| Certified mail-in lab ($80–$150) | Most accurate. Required before purchasing expensive equipment. Can specify iron speciation. |